How to remove crankcase pulley (poor man's way)?

[eclypse]

Hey wheelman.. How about a write up on how to properly take the clutch apart and put it back together.

My new springs are coming soon in about 3 days and i'm gona need good instructions on how to take the main spring off without getting killed.. hehe. I've seen a video on someone taking it off but it didnt look too safe. Though no idea how you compress that spring to get the nut on.

Man its crazy how fast http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/p ... Honda.aspx can ship out my parts order! They must be stocking the stuff. hehe.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

If you have the strength of one hundred and eleven ordinary Wheelmen as I do, you just squeeze the pulley halves together with your left hand, then unscrew the nut with your right.

For the rest of you, if you can't get your hands on the Official Honda-san-Approved Driven Face Pulley Compressor Tool, there's this:

Note that I no longer use the Giant Adjustable Wrench, as I scored a Giant 39mm 3/4" drive socket that is much easier

1: Unbolt clutch assembly from the shaft.
2: Encircle the clutch with the chain holder tool. ($8.99 at HF) Tighten by twisting the knob until you can twist no more. Do not use the clamp-lock function
3: Gently and carefully apply a c-clamp that locking clamp as shown. A carpenter's screw-type clamp works just as well. I often use both to prevent Decapitation by Pulley
4: Lock the whole mess up as best you can in Trusty WorkMate as shown. Set it so that unscrewing (or tightening) forces are mainly borne by the Chain Holder tool.

That nut takes some serious twist to remove sometimes, so take your time with the setup.

Once it's loose, I can usually comress the spring enough by hand to allow me to spin the nut off, then gently release spring pressure.

To reassemble, you can use the WorkMate to squeeze the spring/sheave assembly together close enough to install a couple of C-clamps, then use those to engage the oval-shaped cutout into the pulley body. Make sure the nut has at least a couple of turns before setting the whole thing back into the WorkMate for final torque - something like 25-30ft-lbs. (You do not want this nut coming off while underway... trust me on that one! )

[eclypse]

Thanks for the instructions Wheelman! Dang parts came overnight and i got them an hour ago.. Just bought a clain clamp locally as i cant wait for the one to come in the mail.

So, here goes nothing! hehe.. Gota change all the springs on both clutches for the 88 and 01 SA50s.. Gona be a blast to finally see it all part for the first time.

[eclypse]

Welp, here was the best thing to use for removing the face drive to get the variator off. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalo ... Id=1311-10

Could not use the locking chain pliers as the starter gear thing to the left was in the way.

Holding the clutch seemed inpossable with the chain pliers.. I tried everything. I even managed scratching up the movable drive face with the sides of the chain trying to grab ahold of it. I could not sit the chain on the edge of the face so i ended up just grabing it around the clutch pads.

That large nut took forever to get off.. Thank god i had my old man with me to assist. We ended up using a hammer to hammer on the wrench to lossen to nut which worked.

Big question in the next post so i dont make this one too long.

[eclypse]

I have a quick question about installing the belt the correct way.

I usually just lay the belt over the clutch end and then pop it over the drive boss in front of the variator. Never had a prob before untill i ended up putting a new belt on it. The belt is preventing me from getting the drive face on the splines.

So i've read that someone said that you can lower the belt on the clutch end so you can raise the belt up some on the variator so theres more room to seat the drive face in enough to reach the splines. Well i did that last night.

The 88 honda elite LX seemed strange at first on take off and i figured it was just the belt moving into the proper possition. Slow then yanked off fast. On the next take off it seemed fine and normal. So after a quick trip around the block i opened up the crackcase cover to check it out to be sure and it seemed wierd that the belt was still down a little on the clutch side where i had it when i installed it.

Thought that maybe that should'nt be that way so i removed the fac drive again and this time installed the belt down on the boss like i used to and installed the face drive again not seating good on the splines as the belt seems to wide.

Now i'm windering which way is right?? I'm in fear that i've messed up the splines on the crank shaft as in the past i used a impact wrench to install the face drive.. thinking maybe i trashed the very edge of the splines. I'm using a oil filter wrench now which works great.


I bought the new belt at a honda dealer.. Actually i ordered the belt for the 01 honda SA50 SR but i'm pretty sure it was the same model number belt and would work on either scooter.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

It's the same belt, according to the part numbers. It may be slipping if you didn't get the pulley all the way tight because the belt interfered. Your fear of trashing the splines that way is a perfectly rational one!

I take both hands and squeeze the driven pulleys apart. Then with my third hand, I use any handy stick - usually my 3/8" ratchet extension - and wedge it between the driven pulleys to hold them apart. Now the belt has all kinds of slack to pop over the drive pulley boss, and it stays far away from center. Next I carefully engage the splines, install the washer and spin the nut on to hand-tight. Use the oil filter wrench to prevent the pulley from rotating and apply the Honda-prescribed 30 ft-lbs. torque.

Don't forget to remove your stick/wedge before you reinstall the belt cover. Don't axt me how I know.

[eclypse]

Thanks.. Wish i would of asked last night before putting it on again as i was unsure. I'll remove it again and do it the right way.

Thanks again.. Have a great weekend!