the next step: just gears? big bore? ADVICE PLEASE

[Limp1144]

Thanks video nut. Still updating the website as we speak. But the ruima 51mm kit is race proven in taiwan and produces mad torque. All you really need is
51mm Ruima Big bore kit 90.00
24mm oko carb 60.00
ct manifold 50.00
adjustable throttle cable 15.00
9:1 ruima gear 50.00 and i throw in a free tranny gasket.
Then since i am feeling nice ill even throw in a free spark plug AND some GLITTER.
Make it happen jesse like wheelman said no one want to carry a heavy * chinese scooter up the stairs to work on and trust me i have owned 2 chinese scooters you will be working on them. Thanks china for putting the cam in 180degrees out of timing from the factory NICE

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

If'n you want to maximum longevity from your Monster Bore, you could consider underfeeding it. Skip the carb, manifold, and cable, spend that $125 on a pipe instead. If you can find/make a big-enough (105?) jet, the stock carb should be able to supply the 51's low-end needs; in fact smaller carbs work very well for torque at lower revs. Higher velocities, better atomization, all that rot.

Keep conservative with your choice of rollers and match the pipe to a 8-9K power band and you'll have explosive off-the-line starts (that Tractor torque thing again...) still make it to 60 with 9:1 or even 8.4:1 gears, and a bore that'll be loafing and lasting a long time. You can always go back and add the carb/intake stuff later. Christmas will soon be upon us!

[jesse1234]

If'n you want to maximum longevity from your Monster Bore, you could consider underfeeding it. Skip the carb, manifold, and cable, spend that $125 on a pipe instead.

what do you mean by underfeeding?

I'm starting to lean (duh duh tshh) towards going with the bore, gears, pipe setup. As long as I don't have to upgrade carb/mani to be able to run safely.... Would I still need a monster jet like a 105 to work? Is the V8 pipe from daywot a suitable compliment to his polini contesta? Is there a "how-to for noobs" walk through for big bore install?

[Limp1144]

I have ran a 51mm big bore with a stock carb. but once i switched to a 24mm oko carb i got 5 times the power and low end pull. Plus you dont need a motorcycle endorsement for 85cc.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Distinguished DAC recorded his Big Bore Installation for posterity in Advanced Tech Documents here:

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... f=8&t=4480

Underfeeding means using a smallish carb for your application. Limp correctly asserted that for maximum performance a larger carb "Opened up" the performance potential of his 85cc kitted scoot. However small carbs have the virtue of being unable to furnish sufficient mixture for the engine to do itself harm - PROVIDED the mixture is correct.

Basically a smaller carb imposes a "throttle restriction" simply by having so little venturi diameter to work with. If you have a big carb but never open the throttle all the way, the effect is similar. Engine operates at a lower power output level = generates less heat = potentially lasts a lot longer. Again, that's only true if the incoming mixture is rich enough.

More technically,

http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_te ... dstick.htm

[Limp1144]

The Dr. Wheelman says, "A bigger carb will give you the ability to blow your nuts off if done correctly".

[jesse1234]

ok so I've been thinking about this alot, and getting a ton of solid advice (thanks especially to wheelman, burnt toast, and limp) At the moment, this is the option I'm leaning towards:

66cc bore from Daywot
Roller pack to tune with
9:1 gears
(and the high speed pulley I've already got)


Hopefully, I'll get around 50+ mph, with a good amount of ooomph, for around $200. And I'll be able to run stock carb and muffler.

Does that sound like a good idea to you guys?

[Limp1144]

Jesse for 200 i can hook you up. 66cc is to small if you want to run 50-55mph it is better to invest a little more. A good saying by me. It is better to build the Scootcy to go faster than the average speed you will be riding so there is not as much stress on the engine. 51mm is the minimal for not getting ran over and beating cars haha.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Shopping list:

50-72cc pipe (you need this...)
9.1:1 Gears
100-ish main jet.
47 or 51mm bore kit.
7-8 gram rollers.

Big bore takes care of the take-off torque. Smallish pipe and carb/intake rein in the RPM to ensure durability. Easily should reach 55, especially if you use a 51 = 85cc on a short leash.

I've always found that when I build something that runs near the limit of the performance envelope, I always manage to find - and often exceed - that limit.

I'm suggesting a torque monster that pulls strongly at low revs, but runs out of breath before it can really hurt itself.

You can always go back for the big carb later. The 72cc pipe will retain most of its value if you keep it clean and spray some BoeShield now & again.

YMMV

[jesse1234]

Ok, tons of good advice. The setup I'm leaning towards is the 66cc bore and gears. This is why....

Going from 50cc to 66cc is a 32% increase for $200. Going from 50-72cc is a 44% bump for $400. (I could run the 66 bore with stock pipe, but would need to buy a pipe for the 72, and the bore is more expensive.) I hear what you're saying, Wheelman, about not running at the motors full potential all the time.... I really won't be though. A good portion of my cruising will be around 45-50, but a lot of it will be in traffic too.... never really in open roads holding WOT for miles on end. I also think that further on down the road (maybe christmas time) I might end up adding a pipe/carb/etc. to the 66cc bore to see what kind of performance I get, but just not yet.

So, I think I'm going to be buying parts tonight. If anyone has any last words to sway my opinion any which way, I am planning on purchasing the rollers here, the bore here, and the gears from limp here

[Limp1144]

Jesse i got the big bore in stock and the 9.1 gearings. If you buy from me i can combine ship to save you more money

[jesse1234]

Alright well here's what I went with:



9:1 from daywot:


66cc from daywot:



HUGE thanks to everyone who gave advice and helped. Hope you're all excited to help me years to come

[Videonut]

Good job and ride on brotha......

videonut

[burnt_toast]

Lookin good

[808BMW]

If you have to do maintenance, you should not be doing mods, unless those maintenance items can be upgraded for a bit more.

What do you mean by this?

Sorry to be so late, I've been having computer issues.
Whatever you mod (scooter, car, whatever) you need to have it well maintained and running properly. That is a universal standard for anything.

I meant that if you can sneak in mods (Maintenance requires new piston rings for stock bore, why not upgrade? Or your exhaust is rusty/broken, why not upgrade instead of buy a new stock one?) then you can go that route.

I find daywot a bit expensive given the options available now, but I wish the best of luck to you with the parts you grabbed.