Spree 44mm bore kit on ebay - anyone familiar with it?

[zapwalker]

gotcha! thanks for the info.

[bradthreee]

I think what he meant is add a small amount of premix oil to your fuel tank to help with the break-in process in addition to the injector oil that is already being pumped into the engine. A few capfuls will should not gum up your carb as long as its high quality oil.
Me personally I switched over to premix, running my setup, to ensure that oil is lubricating as it should. I didnt want to rely on the pump alone. I used Honda HP2 in the blue bottle.

[Lunytune]

Brad, I understood him, just not sure I agree.

Is the HP2 oil dual purpose or pre-mix only? As I understand, injection oil may be used for pre-mix also. I've got too many motors right now to get confused with which oil goes in what. I've my preference for 4 stroke, and it goes in everything 4 stroke, and I'm working toward the same system with 2 strokers. Same oil for scooters, chainsaw and weedeater.

[bradthreee]

HP2 is Honda perfomance synthetic 2 stroke oil for premix only. If you have the injector 2 stroke oil (perferably GN2) it wouldn't hurt to put a bit(maybe a capful or 2) in the gas tank. Extra oil going thru your motor isnt going to hurt anything. Its going to be burned out of the exhaust anyways. I would not go out and buy a bottle of premix just to drop a few capfuls in the tank for break in period. Use what you got my friend. What will gum up your carb is crappy 2 stroke oil.

[ida34]

My kit came with instructions to open up the head to accommodate the larger piston. I have yet to take it to the machine shop to see about getting it done. Basically, the head has a 41 mm opening for the stock piston. With the kit the opening or the combustion chamber on the head, needs to be opened up to 44 mm so the piston does not slap the head. The tolerance is tight and the piston may clear while it is cold but when hot it may hit.

So basically, you don't have to mill the head to change overall height, just port the parameter to accommodate the dome piston. That can be done with a dremel if done carefully. I guess I'll know more when the kit arrives.

So then, ida, are you running your scooter? Or is kit still in the box?

Still in the box right now. I will probably line the head up on the jug and scribe out the new combustion chamber size. I try to dremel it myself. Putting it in a lathe would work the best but I do not have one.

[808BMW]

It's up to you if you don't feel comfortable adding extra oil, but more power = more heat = more need for lubrication.

I'd add premix to every tank (actually I'd remove the pump and only run premix so you know what's going on, but that's up to you) that has a bore, and even EXTRA during break in.
If you foul a plug it costs $5 for a new one, if you blow your bore because your scared of oil, you need to buy a whole new bore.

I've run "premix only" oil in my injection system, worked fine. In fact I've just been breaking in my brand new bore for 2 days (just made 100 miles on the way home) with Castor running at 20:1. That is thicker oil than most of you guys run, and a much thicker mixture (I run 32:1 normally) and you know what? No fouled plugs, no blown bore, all smiles.


EDIT: Just have to add, I have never seen a carb plugged up due to oil. Only dirt will screw up your carb, oil fouls plugs.

[Lunytune]

808BMW,
Do you mean "castor oil" or "Castrol"? Big difference. The first is what yo momma tried to give you when you had a belly ache, but you probably resisted and wanted the pink stuff. If the latter, I believe it is dual purpose, injection and pre-mix. My son in law raced yammerhammers in his younger days and swears by Castrol. He is now on pit crew for dirt track sprint, and they use Castrol automotive oil. He's too old and broke up for bikes anymore.

There is a point in your favor from many, many, many (how many?) years ago when almost everything used a high mix of oil, from chainsaws to cycles and outboard motors. But quality was not as good back then and 1 to 50 was unthinkable. No, it won't hurt, but it will foul plugs more frequently. But what's a couple of extra plugs during break-in. It's a matter of whatever floats your boat.

[GIJoeBob]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil

Industrial castor oil

Castor oil has numerous applications in transportation, cosmetics and pharmaceutical, and manufacturing industries, for example: adhesives[33], brake fluids [34], caulks, dyes[33], electrical liquid dielectrics, humectants,[33] hydraulic fluids, inks[33], lacquers, leather treatments,[33] lubricating greases, machining oils, paints[33], pigments, polyurethane adhesives [35] , refrigeration lubricants, rubbers[33], sealants, textiles[33], washing powders, and waxes.

Vegetable oils, due to their good lubricity and biodegradability are attractive alternatives to petroleum-derived lubricants, but oxidative stability and low temperature performance limit their widespread use.[36] Castor oil has better low temperature viscosity properties and high temperature lubrication than most vegetable oils, making it useful as a lubricant in jet, diesel, and race-car engines.[37] However, castor oil tends to form gums in a short time, and its use is therefore restricted to engines that are regularly rebuilt, such as race engines. Biodegradability results in decreased persistence in the environment (relative to petroleum-based lubricants[38]) in case of an accidental release. The lubricants company Castrol took its name from castor oil.

Since it is has a relatively high dielectric constant (4.7), highly refined and dried castor oil is sometimes used as a dielectric fluid within high performance high voltage capacitors.

Castor oil is the raw material for the production of a number of chemicals, notably sebacic acid, undecylenic acid, nylon-11. A review listing numerous chemicals derived from castor oil is available.[39]

Castor oil is the preferred lubricant for bicycle pumps, most likely because it doesn't dissolve natural-rubber seals.[40]

Uses in early aviation and aeromodelling

Castor oil was the preferred lubricant for the early aviation powerplant design known as the rotary engine, such as the Gnome engines used in pre-World War I "pioneer aircraft", after that engine's widespread adoption for aviation in Europe in 1909, and was used almost universally by the rotary engines in World War I Allied aircraft.

The methanol-fuelled glow plug engines used for aeromodelling purposes, since their adoption in the model airplane hobby in 1948, have used castor oil as a dependable lubricant that is highly resistant to degradation when the engine has its fuel-air mixture "leaned out" for maximum engine speed. The aforementioned gummy residue problem can still be troublesome for aeromodelling powerplants lubricated with castor oil, however, usually resulting in eventual ball bearing replacement when the residue builds up too much within the engine's bearing races.

Castor biofuel farming started in 2008 in Ethiopia. Families in the Waletia and Goma Gofa regions of Ethiopia began by seeding castor beans for use in biodiesel. The initiative is run by energy company Global Energy Ethiopia, who are also conducting a research and development programme to create new varieties of castor with better yields. (Sub-Saharan Africa gateway, Science and Development Network website, 2008)

[tazland001]

Whats up fellas. Marc is in the house. I use Yama Lube. I love that oil. Has never let me down. I use yama lube for my motocross racing team also.
This is basically still a bolt on kit. Just cause you have to turn your head on a lathe to 44mm, It is not like you have mill the engine to fit a stroker kit.
You mix 2 ounces of two-stroke for 3 gas tanks for the break in. This works well for the break in. Also for break just ride the spree slow for about two to three weeks to let the piston and rings seat on the cylinder walls correctly.
I will have racing gears in three weeks for the spree. will add more top end to the 44mm kit.

Marc

[zapwalker]

let me know cuz i am down to turn my spree into an all out hog.

[GIJoeBob]

let me know cuz i am down to turn my spree into an all out hog.

that's what I aim to do with my next one, in more ways than one.

[Lunytune]

This is basically still a bolt on kit. Just cause you have to turn your head on a lathe to 44mm, It is not like you have mill the engine to fit a stroker kit.

Marc, that's still a bit misleading. I know it's a simple procedure but it's not truly bolt on, and does add to the expense. I live in a small town with no machine shop and will have to travel 30 miles to get it done. How much must be removed and can it be done with a dremel or must it be done on a lathe? I've got two of your kits coming in the mail and want to make sure they are done right.

[zapwalker]

that's what I aim to do with my next one, in more ways than one.

i have started rerouting the blinkers in the front so that they do not stick out the sides of the leg guard and for the rear blinkers i have bought some old school bullet style lights to give it a retro look. and i am going to hack off the blinkers that are on the rack to give it a sleek look. I will get a post up soon with photos.

[Lunytune]

[quote="zapwalker]i have started rerouting the blinkers in the front so that they do not stick out the sides of the leg guard and for the rear blinkers i have bought some old school bullet style lights to give it a retro look. and i am going to hack off the blinkers that are on the rack to give it a sleek look. I will get a post up soon with photos.[/quote]
If you are in the process of cosmetic mods, don't hack the old parts. I'm sure there are guys in here willing to pay for those old parts.

[GIJoeBob]

that's what I aim to do with my next one, in more ways than one.

i have started rerouting the blinkers in the front so that they do not stick out the sides of the leg guard and for the rear blinkers i have bought some old school bullet style lights to give it a retro look. and i am going to hack off the blinkers that are on the rack to give it a sleek look. I will get a post up soon with photos.

I'm thinking of something like this-