How to split a AF16e case for noobs. Plus 120cc install

[tru72]

dont be to happy yet..
the worse is yet to come. Put some load on it and try riding it. Hope you have a temp guage or a good feel of motors. Seizes you should be aware of! LOL and dont put more oil in it to break in, make the gas mix lean. With proper jetting and building a big motor is very reliable and fun to ride! lots of power on demand!
good luck!
so far so good!

[Limp1144]

I use dominator oil 50:1 this should be lean enough i think. No siezes yet haha. Tommorrow i am riding it 15 miles so i will document progress.

[bakaracer]

I use dominator oil 50:1 this should be lean enough i think. No siezes yet haha. Tommorrow i am riding it 15 miles so i will document progress.

you should do another heat cycle this time 20mins long then let cool.then whe your ready to ride do your jetting and plug chops.a 15mile ride like that is a long way for not setting those things first.

[Limp1144]

Another heat cool cycle that is a very good idea. I am going to fire it up tonight and let it idle for another 20 minutes but first i will retighten the head bolts

[bakaracer]

before you go on the 15 mile ride you should set your jetting up and do some plug chops.strokers can seize bad and you will be walking it home.

[burnt_toast]

plz borrow a better camera too

[Limp1144]

Guys bought a super good camera off amazon hd 8.1mp for 80.00

[eclypse]

d*** thats fast! He listens pretty good!

Now deposit $1k into my paypal so i can buy me a bunch of speed parts for my 01 SR! lol

[Arnadanoob]

It took me several bikes to develop a working break in procedure that I'm confident in its success.

First of all jet for 32:1 even with Dominator. I know the bottle says 50:1 but all of your parts haven't worn in correctly to use that oil ratio. If you jet right, when you snap the throttle wide open instantly from idle, the bike should want to wheelie on a stroker. If the carb makes a hollow BAAAAWWW sound, you are too small on the jetting (on the slow circuit usually the pilot jet and air screw). Don't simply add more oil without adjusting your jetting, if you do all you're going to accomplish is making the fuel mix too lean. You don't want spikes in temps from running lean. The piston and bore needs time to expand and contract in size (in relation to the temps) to situate itself to each other with temps being applied gradually. This will also help seat the rings properly with the surface of the bore. If you're absolutely paranoid you can jet to be on the rich side (fuel) as long as the oil ratio remains at 32:1. Fouling a plug is nothing and it'll still accomplish what you need to do below.

The next thing you want to do is heat cycle the engine. Ride the bike for a mile bearing no load other than yourself, avoid hills and vary the throttle often. Stop after you reach a mile and let the engine cool completely which should take about 15 minutes depending on your climate. That's 1 heat cycle. Then ride your bike for 2 miles, repeat the procedure and stop the engine, let it cool down. Increase the next distance to 5 miles, stop and let it cool again. Increase the distance another 10 miles and stop the engine let it cool down. Do not exceed distance exceeding 10 miles at a time until you reach 10-15 complete heat cycles. Remember not to apply too much load on the engine during te heat cycling procedure, that means avoid steep hills and carrying excess weight.

It is a myth that you must use junk oil for break in process. The parts don't have to physically wear down, however each part that's subjected to heat will move (in tolerance) from thermal expansion and cooling. I have engines with over 50k miles on the bore and piston (rings wear no matter what) and they still have the proper piston to bore clearances with original honing marks that appear like you just re-honed them.

[Limp1144]

Arnadanoob that is excellent instructions i will try it your way since you types out over paragraph. lol But i will try it your way and see what happens. This pe 26mm keihin carb is for 130-135cc bikes but i really cant pull the plug till i do a harder run but if i hear Baaaawwwww i will rejet.

[Arnadanoob]

GL with your break in. Remember to invest extra time during the break in period. When you first start the engine cold the air fuel ratio will be leaner due to poor atomization of fuel (it's condensing inside your engine making it harder to burn completely). Once everything warms up, the fuel atomizes better and it should run richer, that's when you snap the throttle from idle to wide open instantly. If it goes BAAAAWWWW, turn the air screw inward a half turn and try again. If you are under 1 full turn on the air screw, go up on the pilot jet size and set your air screw 1.5 turns out and retry. When you get the right setting when you snap your throttle wide open your bike should want run away from you feeling very strong. When you reach this point I hope part of your hand is ready on the brake, hehe.

You don't have to go to 10 miles but if you must (I know the mainland is bigger than Hawaii) then by all means. If you really want to you could go 1 mile initially then go 2 miles and remain at 2 mile intervals between heat cycles. The entire idea is to expose the engine to operating temps for a short duration to start, then let it cool down completely. By repeating the procedure and increasing the distance it's all about exposing the engine to operating temps gradually longer then letting it cool down completely again. When you reach 10 heat cycles (or close to it), stop and recheck your installation, ensure there are no leaks, check where the bore meets the block (gasket seating) to ensure there's no leaks, check the head gasket area for leaks, etc. You can recheck the torque on the head nuts/bolts if you wish (I would) after it cools down completely.

[Limp1144]

So just as everyone expected the stock jet was to small i rode the scooter 1 mile today. It will not idle down correctly so i will set the air screw all the way in till i get the new jets in.

[Limp1144]

Good news guy today i was riding it around probably a little harder than i should. Got about 2 miles in the boom the motor seized haha. The belt stopped and made a squeeking sound. So pulled over and check everything out and kick started it and drove home. I believe this is what they call a soft seize

[burnt_toast]

Good news guy today i was riding it around probably a little harder than i should. Got about 2 miles in the boom the motor seized haha. The belt stopped and made a squeeking sound. So pulled over and check everything out and kick started it and drove home. I believe this is what they call a soft seize

yes sirr sounds like it, if it kicked over right after ur good to go just take it easier next cycle and vary throttle lots. probably need to richen too

[Arnadanoob]

Some folks make the mistake of adding too much oil without upjetting during break in. Go rich on the slow circuit (pilot jet, air screw) and avoid using throttle beyond 1/2 until you complete the heat cycles. With a stroker you shouldn't need to use any more than 1/2 throttle to get anywhere. No hills, no extra load, take your time when you accelerate. It's highly suggested that you have a CHT gauge installed, what you're watching for is constant temps to stay around 300F but no more than 350F at any one time.

Since you're only riding around using part throttle, you must check the jetting before you ride. Like I told Limp earlier, once the bike is warmed up, you check the pilot jet/air screw after the engine warms up. Snap the throttle from idle to WOT instantly then let go ASAP. If it makes a BWAHHHH hollow sound, you are way too lean. Turn the air screw clockwise (in) 0.5 turns (half turn) then retry. If you're beyond 1 full turn from bottom, move up on the pilot jet. You want to be ideally between 1 and 2 turns out. If you have it set right, when you snap the throttle open your bike should want to take off like a rocket. Also listen to when the revs drops down. If you snap the throttle open then let go, the revs go up, then you let go of the throttle but the revs comes down a little bit, stays at a higher than normal rpm for a bit then comes back to idle, it's still too lean. The engine must rev up the rev down the same way.

On some bikes I've used huge pilot jets around a 60 or 62 on a 28mm Oko during break in periods. It's important to have a stock of pilot and main jets handy for your carb.