Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

so i have never ported anything and will probably be buying my first drimil or air powered grinder today

i have my head off, my engine out, and my case split.

what can i port? looking at the cylinder, porting the ports that are on the cylinder wall seems terrifying but i think i could open up the exhaust flange quit a bit, but would it make a difference? ( i have a leo vince pipe)

looking at the intake, ive ordered an aero80 reed cage and intake but its not here yet... looking at the case i split open, it looks like i could open the intake ports up quit a bit but is there an advantage to this?

ive looked around this web site but its unclear to me when and why you port the internal hole/ports on the cylinder or just the external ones. ( im sure someone will rip me a new one and then give me a link)

do i just want to take the head to a shop and have it professional ported or are they just as likely to bugger it up as a generic machine shop? id rather do it myself and have new tools left over to show for it

Clean and retransition the exhaust port, you might want to open it up a bit more but make sure you check it with the exhaust gasket from time to time. I'm not sure whether its a good idea to raise the exhaust port on that cylinder others with more experience with that cylinder will have a better to idea. I'd clean up and transition anything that is more than about a 7 or 8 degree angle flow is everything and anywhere the flow has a hard edge to try and flow around degrades the flow tons. Get your self some stones and some carbide burrs and got to town. Take your time you can do it. Look on YouTube for blaster porting, there is a guy who shows how to port a cylinder in detail and how to clean it after. Watch them and you will have no problem.

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how about the intake ports in the case? im guessing just chew away. it kind of looks like i can take out alot on the top but the bottom is not very thick and will go through the case.

as far as the exhaust, i should shave all metal that is exposed when the gasket is in on the flange side? in regards to the side with the cylinder wall; porting up ( the direction of the cylinder head) will change my timing? ( i dont want to do that at least not for my first port.) what about opening it left and right? what about down? im guessing down runs the risk of matching the ports below.

what is the difference between a boost port and an intake port on the cylinder? do i want to open them up?

You can make the case's intake ports a little wider and as you said taller. Also you can knife edge the piece that comes down in the middle.

If you stick a finger in the exhaust port of the cylinder you should feel a how it gets more restrictive in the bend. Grind that section to be more like the diameter of the rest.

This is all advice that won't mess with timing, just open things up a bit more. What are you trying to get out of this motor? (mileage, reliability, power?)

devenex wrote:
This is all advice that won't mess with timing, just open things up a bit more. What are you trying to get out of this motor? (mileage, reliability, power?)

all the above. im going to keep a stock cylinder. put on an aero 80 intake and reed cage, and used carb if i can ever find one.

you have any sun down there today? tigard/portland has been all clouds. my reeds wont be here until the 5th so i want to have eveything prepped by then

anyone know about opening the af05e cylinder up to the left and right?

doesn't look like anyone else wants to chime in, here goes nothing .....

I really like devonexÔÇÿs wisdom, if you follow his directions you shouldnt have any troubles. Just correcting casting flaws and smoothing transitions and giving the cats tounge texture to all of the places air\fuel flows will make a huge difference in performance. here is some porting on my stock spree cylinder, since there is enough thickness in the skirt i was able to really open the flow to the ports and gave that roughed up texture, cleaned up the exhaust port and fixed the transitioning. I diddnt raise the exhaust port, not yet anyway. I also cleaned up under the reed block by putting the reedblock in place and pushing it down on the reeds with a pencil to see where to get rid of the square edges that were creating turbulance where it shouldnt be. All that stuff helps perfomance while retaining stock reliablity.

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Make sure you was the cylinder thouroughly with tons of dish soap and hot water, then dry as quick as possible with compressed air or a hair drier and rags. Then oil with 2stroke oil the second you dry it so it wont flash rust.

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Dont port anything. Clean the case get the crank balanced and put new bearings and seals cherray! Or spend a hundred more on a stock Af16

Wow I bet getting a crank balanced would make a world of difference, they probably diddnt take that much time to really do that to the best it could be at the factory. They probably made them to a certain tolerance and off it went.

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hate to break it to you, but you can't really port for power, fuel economy and reliability. FE and reliability go hand in hand, but angling for more performance beyond a certain point will affect the previous two features.

My advice would be to just do what has been suggested above, open up the intake and exhaust a little bit. This should give a mild performance increase but you won't sacrifice anything in economy or reliability (so long as you're careful to not leave any metal shavings behind!). If you want more power beyond that then you can look into moving the exhaust port up (thus changing the timing) but this can adversely affect bottom end power as well as fuel economy.

Oh and the weather has been mighty nice down here the last two days (not sure about today, been stuck in my office w/ no windows ).

devenex wrote:hate to break it to you, but you can't really port for power, fuel economy and reliability. FE and reliability go hand in hand, but angling for more performance beyond a certain point will affect the previous two features.

well its about time someone does, i miss the good old days where someone would rip you a new a** hole and you got to the bottom of things right away.

).

i ported the intake on the case and the exhaust on the cylinder. its really hard to measure, but from what i can measure, the intake ports increased by 3.87mm virically no way to get a horizontal measurement.

thank you for your patients, everyone's advice made things much easier once i got in there

so as i mentioned im putting an aero80 reed cage and intake on the block. but it seems as if the aero80 is bigger in some ways and smaller in others. i kind of feel like i should put the aero50 reed stopped on the aero80 reeds. what so you think.

i also sand blasted the case

the aero 50 reeds look like they open up way more! ideas?

You can always bend the stopper. I do it, just bend the stopper to only have a few thousands clearance to the case. I've been told that by a really experianced 2 stroke engine builder, and read it many times years ago. It really helped my spree.

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