2000 Elite S Build - "Mr. Grey"

[Rancher1]

I moved the needle clip down one position (richer) from middle and air mixture now at 1 turn out. She seems to like that better. I'll continue fine tuning as time goes on but it's getting close to dialed in. The general theme is the derestriction and bigger bore wants it richer from stock.

She's idling very nicely with clean response. Very happy I went with the Malossi bore over the Taiwan kit. Thanks for the suggestion Graphite.

Now it's time to sell my '85 Spree with 500 miles and BBK. Decent shape, good parts, and clean. Stock bore included. Any North California interest? First dibs here before it goes on Craigslist.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

That was a great accounting of a cylinder installation. Somebody copy this down.

I too believe there's a lot of Mythology about break-in. I do a couple of heat cycles, and watch the temp. If it runs OK for 50 miles or more, open it up and cross your fingers. See Flash 9 at 75 miles.

[1man8scoots]

I'm helping a shop in town catch up with their work load and after bbk install they only let them idle for 30 minutes with occasional throttle blips and take it to go get burgers and back to the owner it goes. I did 2 engines yesterday for them and was in awe that was how shops do it. But it was recommended by malossi to do it this way.

[Rancher1]

I grew up in Hawaii and that's basically how one of the bigger shops there did it also (years ago). They tell customers to take it easy on throttle for a little bit and watch temps. The fresh bore 'can' heat up quicker than normal as it works out the micro imperfections. Made sense to me.

[veedubh20]

You will need b8hs for malossi cast bore n should by a polini cp carb use pwk jet. And this intake. Doppler from treat tv.

[Rancher1]

I'll probably stick with the stock carb/airbox for now to keep the noise factor down. Are there problems using the stock/hotter BR6 plug with my setup? I was thinking of staying on the hotter side since I won't be running it too hard for any long duration and thought a colder plug would just foul quicker given my usage.

Naraku jet kit arriving any day now and will fine tune a little more.

Now time to work on cosmetics. I pulled all the plastics off for a clean, repair, and paint job. Fixed some hairline cracks on the body panels with some ABS cement and they feel strong. Going to use a plastic epoxy for the fender repair. Need to build a small tab there. Using Rustoleum rattle can paint. Body got sanding and first primer run filling scratches. Plan to use Rustoleum Metallic Black Night with Crystal Clear top coats. Hope it holds up. Planning to put Bumper and Trim Satin Black with no clear coat (for easy touch up jobs) on fender, front panel, and side trims. Putting Truck Bed Liner Matte Black on the step board. Not sure if I want to paint match the battery cover to the body or trim. Putting Engine Enamel Gloss Black on tires and calipers. It's going to be a very black bike.

Any suggestions on mirrors? I don't care for the handle bar type.

Is it possible to change the headlight to something brighter? I know it tied to the alternator but it would be nice to have a bit more light throw at idle and low RPM. Might have to look into fog lights.

[Rancher1]

The bike is coming together. A lot of cleaning, fixing, painting all over. Tuning wise I put in a #92 main and she likes that better. Since I'm still taking it easy on the engine, I'm not sure what temp she'll run at with sustained WOT. Will test in time. For now it's pretty close.

Installed Kymco low profile tail lights and discovered the pin outs is different than what's posted in the wiki. The green and green/yellow pins are flipped for my unit.

[Rancher1]

Speaking of temperatures, what's a safe max temp for the 72cc Malossi Cast Iron?

[Rancher1]

Well, looks like this simple hill climber will be expanding her function as a street runner. As such, she still needs to be quiet (for now sticking with stock carb/pipe) but a top speed of 55-65mph is now a new requirement. My initial thoughts are Polini variator and 9:1 gears.

Anyone know how the DDX variator compares to the Polini?

Would 8.4:1 be too tall for my mild setup? I like the idea of cruising it and taking some stress off the bore at 45+, but don't want to completely trash the low end.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[veedubh20]

Variator brand pulleys are trail n error. The best pulley is Daytona .

8.4 gear is a good all round. N 1 k center spring.
Was my setup on my red s. S stock pipe, keli pulley, k ramp / all 7 grams, stock s trans, 24oko n ct chrome. Got 60 plus.

[1man8scoots]

How do you like the naraku kit? I have the 101 octane and the naraku jets and the naraku are a bit longer. I've yet to install them tho.
Codename is right on the temps, I've only hit 381 once on the malossi bore with stock intake carb. After 380 you really want to watch them temps.

[Trafficjamz]

if you a want to do 55mph without revving to the moon. dont go with 9.1 gears.

8.4:1 would be much better.

If you do a zx trans i wold recomend 8.0 or 7.5 gears.

[Rancher1]

Graphite, I got the Daytona Side Stand, thanks. I'm having some difficulty mounting it however. I assumed point (F) mounts over the engine bolt at point (C):



I went ahead and drilled holes in the frame so the stand bolt/bracket line up:




However, the stand bolts are too tall and their heads (E) push the engine hanger link up and out of alignment (A) so the it can't be mounted:


I know the heads are rubbing because the new paint is rubbed off (E) and I can feel there is no slack pushing on the underside of bolts (B). Does the stand need to be mounted to the right of (C) somewhere (D) is? I'd rather know the correct mount point before drilling more holes in my frame

[1man8scoots]

When I did mine I put the kick stand on the frame and then marked the frame. I'm pretty sure mine is done closer to the front. It went in like butter.

[Rancher1]

How do you like the naraku kit? I have the 101 octane and the naraku jets and the naraku are a bit longer. I've yet to install them tho.
Codename is right on the temps, I've only hit 381 once on the malossi bore with stock intake carb. After 380 you really want to watch them temps.

I'm impressed with the Naraku kit. It's quite the value proposition for people who don't already have a jet kit. Machining appears good. I didn't measure/compare the hole diameters, but my eyeball caliper says it looks the same. The height appears the same:


One thing that is different is the exit pupil is set deeper than the Keihin. It's not clear to me what effect that has on fuel vaporization dynamics:


These are both #88 for comparison.