bbk running questions

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:52 pm

ok heres what i started with,
Stock 86 spree running great top speed of 31-32 mph. fast forward to now
i have installed the taz bbk kit,rings broke in, new plug(chops look perfect real close to the best mark according to the chart on here). no gear up grade,stock air box with 5-- 1/2" holes drilled in the top. and stock exaust. and a close to 90 jet. my top speed is only 31-32, while it gets to 25 real fast it takes in a min to get to 30-32, so is there something im doing wrong? i should be doing better then this. i mean i started at 31/32 mph, will going with the uni filter be better? o btw the 95 jet just seemed to rich. wondering if a possible air leak around the carb could be the cuprit?. hu if my carb from jamdi112233 would have shown up i would know(sorry still miffed by it.) anyway any suggestions would be very helpful.

mr pibbs · Post by **mr pibbs** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 11:25 pm

Its a matter of RPM's. Unless your rpms get higher, your top speed will not change.

To see palpable change gears could be the best way to go and one of the few options you have.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 9:23 am

Greetings:

Top Speed Dilemma:

Gearing.

A larger rear tire will increase your groundspeed at your current RPM ceiling. Legend holds that a 2.75 fits without issues, and some brands of 3.00 may install at the cost of some plastic bits.

Taz's gears offer the easiest path to overdrive.

RPM

Removing intake and exhaust obstacles to higher RPM is another way to go. The trouble with bagging the stock airbox is evidently the non-replaceable, tiny idle circuit. Carb swap? Enlarged ( *shudder*

) idle circuit?? Few have resolved this, and unfortunately I'm not one of them. A home-made exhaust or perhaps JiangWayne's AF09 pipe are the only outlet side options. Raising the exhaust port should accompany. However remember the importance of keeping a decent bit of low-end grunt on this one-speed Scooter. You can't just tune for screamin'-high, lest you forsake even stock level of take-off power.

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:54 am

i have the sb50 intake and reeds,i recently gave my exhaust the burn treatment. im thinking ill have to get the uni filter. and maybe the tire until i can afford the gears.

mookie · Post by **mookie** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:33 am

odinxxix wrote:i have the sb50 intake and reeds,i recently gave my exhaust the burn treatment. im thinking ill have to get the uni filter. and maybe the tire until i can afford the gears.

did you have any issues with the bystarter/Sh ock being in the way with this intake?

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:02 pm

no, everything fit just fine. im just wondering if i dont have a small air leak at the carb joints, my bolts dont seem to tighten-tighten... meaning they get tight but have that almost stripped feeling like if you give it on more turn it will pop loose. is is possible to drill an tap those holes without damage to the carb?

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:46 pm

Greetings:

Odin Two-Niner axt:

no, everything fit just fine. im just wondering if i dont have a small air leak at the carb joints, my bolts dont seem to tighten-tighten... meaning they get tight but have that almost stripped feeling like if you give it on more turn it will pop loose. is is possible to drill an tap those holes without damage to the carb?

The short answer is yes, you can (and should!) re-tap those flange mount holes. I did it on my first Aero.

Rather than hunt down a Metric size tap and Heli-Coils, I decided to tap it the hair bigger needed for SAE 1/4 bolts. The taps are available at Harbor Freight for dirt-cheap, and the hex bolts are standard hardware store items. IIRC you need a 1-1/2 and a 2" long bolt. One or both may need to be shortened a bit to avoid punching a hole in your float bowl. You do need to enlarge the holes in the carb insulator and manifold a little. The end result is possibly a bit stronger than the M6 stock bolts.

I strongly recommend you address this ASAP. Even if you can get the carb leak-free on assembly, remember that the engine floats and gets hammered with every pebble in the road. It can certainly loosen up once underway. A leak here will fry your bore pretty quickly.

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:03 am

thanks wheelman111 as always you have the answer. ill do that today and see how it goes. i was pulling in x-tra air from the air box as it was missing the rubber seal so i homemade a seal that seems to work out real good. you use the 1/4-20 for your bolts? think i have that size tap here. just need to track down the drill bit size.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:03 am

Greetings:

Yee-up, 1/4 x 20s. You can sometimes find them lying by the sidewalk. Just scrape off the chewing gum.

You should not need to pre-drill the carb flange holes at all. Just run the 1/4" tap through whatcha got. 6mm x 4 is just a bit less than an inch - 25.4mm - and your partially-stripped threads are probably soft. Even my lousy $9. Harbor Freight tap set was hard enough to munch through the aluminum carb casting.

You do need to enlarge the holes in the manifold and/or carb insulator carefully out to a full quarter-inch. If you're careful, the whole assembly becomes self-aligning. Avoid eating your Wheaties the day you tighten this up. Torque values are ridiculously light, in inch-pounds. Just enough to squeeze the O-rings, which act as a kind of lock-washer. Blue LocTite if you're a bit OCD.

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:07 pm

got my bolts n stuff to tap my carb, but before i did thught i would take a small run tops 33mph. but i seem have developed a new problem. after a good run and shut off/cool down it wont restart unless i have throttle wide open. what does that mean? flooding? kinda smells like fuel. do ya think im running to rich?
thanks for input.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:15 pm

Greetings:

What are the air temps in your neck o' the woods? Do you still have your black bystarter cover installed? It could be something as simple as the bystarter retracting and re-applying full choke while the engine's still too hot to need it. In that case, it'll run way rich until the bystarter re-closes. One of the reasons for that black cap is to keep the bystarter hot in the absence of electrical signal. This keeps the choke circuit closed for a while longer. One of the sacrifices to giving up manual control in favor of the fully-automatic.

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:47 pm

got my carb finished and tight.YAY!! yes i do have the bystarter cover and in place. it cant be rich i took the plug out after a wot run(choped it) and if it got anymore tan it would look like my old boss in florida on vaction is his christmas card he sent. its lower to mid 40's here today. best day we are going to have in a while.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:51 pm

Greetings:

It sounds like your jetting is at least close. If the reeds are sealing well, I have to go back to the bystarter thing. In that cold weather, the bystarter experiences "Shrinkage" much faster than the engine cools, so you've got full choke and a warm engine when you re-start. It should improve in warmer weather. If it's starting - even if it needs WOT - then just ride it.

odinxxix · Post by **odinxxix** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:12 pm

cool so im good then glad to hear that, and thats just what im getting ready to do, go for a ride.!!!

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